ST. JOHN’S STREET - ŠV. JONO GATVĖ
From “Vilniaus Gatvių Istorija“ by Antanas Rimvydas Čaplinskas
Translated from Lithuanian by Gloria Kivytaite O‘Brien
It is close to impossible to visit Vilnius without, at least once, finding oneself
at the corner of Castle Street (Pilies Gatvė) and St. John‘s Street.
Crowded as it is by numerous carts selling amber items and other souvenirs, and
a mall-like group of stores, and close to a large square occupied by artists
displaying their works for sale, this is one of the most active areas in the
city. More important, however, and possibly unknown to the greater number of
tourists, is the fact that the short St. John‘s Street is one of the oldest in
Vilnius, and perhaps the most historical.
St. John’s Street is mentioned in archival documents from the middle of the sixteenth century, though without doubt it is much older. It is shown on a map of Vilnius published in 1571, that presents the city as it was prior to a great fire in 1530.
By that time, many of the street’s buildings had running water, brought in wooden pipes from the source, “Vingriu saltinis”. That was a spring at an elevated location in Vilnius, now known as Vingrių gatvė, and provided excellent drinking water from 1501 to 1914, when it was replaced by another source.
Here on St. John‘s Street was the city‘s oldest market-place
(turgavietė); here the noisy fireworks of pre-Lenten carnivals took place.
Members of craftsmen‘s guilds, arrayed in the splendid ceremonial costumes of their
trades, walked in stately procession on costly tapestries spread before
them. The feast of Corpus Christi
(Devintinės) was the occasion for colorful, dramatic processions with
banners, paintings and flower garlands. The gentry (bajorai) strode along St.
John‘s Street displaying their inflated dignity. Artisans, merchants and
tavern-keepers invited passersby to enter their stores, workrooms, and
establishments.
Lithuania‘s most respected and influential noblemen lived on St. John‘s Street - Radvilai, Pacai, Sapiegos - as did rectors of the Academy and University, military officers, religious elite, and artists. The Radvilas palace was often visited by the woman known as Europe‘s most beautiful of that time - Barbora Radvilaitė, wife of the king Žygimantas Augustas. Vilnius’ first city hall (Rotušė), stood in its earliest marketplace directly on the corner that now bears the famous St. Johns’ Church. In 1386, Jogaila, king of Poland and grand duke of Lithuania, issued a privilegija, according to which this church was built, and consecrated in 1427, in honor of two Saints John - the Baptist and the Evangelist.
Almost all of the buildings on the right (northern) side leading away from the church belong to the University. The first house on the left side (No. 3) was the three-story home of the Pacas family, and later, the Sapiegos, mentioned in documents as early as 1628. The two-story building next door (No. 5) was a vaistinė (pharmacy),rebuilt in 1781 after being ruined in a fire during the 1655 war. Next door (No. 7) was the home of Jurgis Ertlis, a craftsman who was responsible for rebuilding the Sts. John Church, after it had been ruined during the 1655-1661 war with the Swedes.
The next house (No. 9) was built around 1645, by a master saddler, and the University rector, Jeronimas Stroinovskis, lived in it during the nineteenth century. And the following house (No. 11) is known by the name of the artist, Boleslavas Ruseckis, though this individual lived here only since 1887.
The last house on St. John’s Street,
(No.13), was the famous “kardinalija”,
for 400 years the home of the influential Radvila family. This had been a large
palace, with additional buildings attached, No. 13 being the only portion
remaining. No. 15/23 were demolished after WW II, and replaced with a more
modern building belonging to the next-named street, Dominikonų Gatvė.
The country‘s rulers, when visiting Vilnius, were greeted with oratory,
music and hymns under triumphal arches and gates erected by the Academy‘s
students and professors. The youth of Vilnius, and of many far-flung corners of
the Lithuanian Grand Duchy, studied at the Academy founded by Jesuits. The
Academy‘s printery, operated by J. Zavadskis and A. Marcinkovskis, printed many
culturally-significant books.
Students here solemnly celebrated the feast of their patron, Saint
Catherine. Their festival processions marched along St. John‘s Street,
decorated for the occasion from top to bottom with coats of arms, symbols and
mottos. As darkness fell, fireworks were sent out from
the bell tower of St. Johns‘ Church, so the entire Kolegija was lit with
varied color. Music and song rang
out and continued through the late hours of the night.
St. John‘s Street saw wedding processions, as well as funeral corteges
escorting a deceased to the Calvinist cemetery.
This street has been witness to quarrels between Calvinists and Jesuits.
During the Reformation, Calvinists, encouraged by Mikalojus Radvila Juodasis (“the Black“) emptied wagons of manure
against the walls of St. Johns‘ Church in an act of desecration. Later, his son
Jurgis Radvila, having returned to Catholicism and even become a cardinal, gave
instructions to burn Calvinist books, including the famous “Brastos Biblija“, which had been published by his father.
The cobble-stone road of St. John‘s Street has been trod by kings -
Žygimantas Augustas, Stephan Batory, Zigmantas Vazas, Vladislavas Vazas and
Jonas Sobieskis - and by czars - Alexanders I and II.
The street saw the city devastated by fires and epidemics, and atrocities
committed by invading armies. Its
pavements have been trampled by the booted feet of Russian, German and Swedish
warriors.
The Muscovite invasion of 1655 was especially hurtful. The unarmed city of
Vilnius, defenseless and abandoned by the Lithuanian army, was occupied by the
Russian army without a fight, plundered and burned. Almost one-third of the
population was massacred. While the pitiful
remains of Vilnius‘ noble citizens, thrown out of their coffins in a
search for jewelry, rolled around the streets, Zolotorenka‘s vicious Cossacks
waded though rivers of blood, the result of their barbaric slaughter of an
innocent populace. The ravaged St. Johns‘ Church was used as a stable.
Following wars, fires and epidemics that swept through their city, the
industrious residents of Vilnius labored to quickly repair the wounds of
disaster. Life settled down and eventually returned to its accustomed grooves.
The people of Vilnius, then as today, worked, created, amused themselves, had
friends, quarreled, loved, and hated. Thanks to talented and prominent
craftsmen St. John‘s Street grew beautiful and decorative.
Architectural monuments surviving from those times, which continue to
fascinate, testify to the builders‘ impeccable taste and skill.
Certainly it is not without reason, that the Old City of Vilnius has been
written into UNESCO‘s list of World Heritage sites. The City itself filled the
important role of European Capital of Culture for 2009.
© English
Translation ..... Gloria O‘Brien 03/2010
Printed in Lithuanian Heritage - March/April 2010