THE STAIN ON THE CATHEDRAL

 

KATEDROS DĖMĖ

Vieneriems metams po 1831 metų sukilimo Lietuvoje praslinkus, kai praejo visi neramumai, Vilniaus Katedros sienoje, išorinėj pusėje nuo Neries, pasirodė tamsi dėmė  --  žmogaus siluetas su išskėstomis rankomis………

 

 

English Translation by Gloria O’Brien

 

Approximately a year after the 1831 Lithuanian uprising, when the disturbances had subsided, a dark stain appeared on the outside wall of Vilnius Cathedral, resembling the silhouette of a person with arms outstretched.  The mark was not very distinct, but people noticed it and reported it to authorities of the church and city.  There wasn’t much that churchly authorities were able to do, but the city government appointed a commission to investigate the stain and determine its origin.  

 

The commission made a thorough inspection, even scraping a small scale off the Cathedral’s wall for closer examination, but they were unable to learn how the mark had happened.  They decided that it must have come about as the result of dampness seeping into the Cathedral’s walls, but assured the populace that the building was in no danger.  The investigation was closed.  The stain remained; sometimes it would fade, and other times it would become even more distinct.

 

But the people would not calm down; especially when rumors began to spread through the city, that this was not just an ordinary stain, but was the work of the Evil One, and might mean misfortune for the entire city.  Some pious women organized a blessing, hoping in that way to erase the mark and eliminate any possible misfortune.  The Church authorities had no objection, and when the priest read the prayer and sprinkled the stain with holy water,  it was gone the

next day. The women’s joy was short-lived, however, as it re-appeared three weeks later, and was even darker.  It remained until the Bolshevik occupation, and by that time, no one was paying it much attention.

 

The origin of the stain had been authoritatively explained in 1835 by the Cathedral’s sacristan, an old man named Maciejauskas, who maintained that the story was told to him by a member of the gentry named Kazimieras Kuliešius, who knew a great deal about it.

 

Kuliešius lived in Balandžių kaima, eight kilometers north of Eišiškes, where he had a large farm.  He lived well, had a fine farmstead surrounded by many tall trees, some of whose branches stretched to cast a cool shade over his roof.   He was one of those petit noblemen who could be found in almost every part of the Vilnius countryside.  He differed from the peasants among whom he lived, by his long mustache and large red nose, which was a sure sign that you were dealing with a nobleman.  The redness was not a result of the use of alcohol  -  Kazimieras drank very little  -  but a mark of his nobility, inscribed by the winds of Lithuania’s outdoors. 

 

He got along very well with his free peasant neighbors.  The people liked him, and there was never a baptism or wedding in the kaima to which Kuliešius was not invited.  There he displayed no arrogance and behaved as a man among equals, though the peasants didn’t neglect to show him honor, pouring his liquor (degtinės) in a separate glass.

 

On festival days, he could be distinguished from his neighbors by his dress  - clothing customarily worn by the nobility of the time.  Kuliešius had a good head for figures, and could read and write in Polish, having attended the school in Eišiškes for four years, and then studied in Vilnius for another five years.  He came home from school in Vilnius at the age of eighteen having learned the Polish language, which was not at all necessary to him, and four words in Latin:  “ego sum” and “mea culpa”.  His studies went no further, and were soon finished. Studies did not seem to go well for him, not because he wasn’t bright, but merely because his thoughts flew to his birthplace, its green fields and sighing forests, rather than hewing to the dry lectures of his teachers.  But he learned the Polish language because it interested him, most of Lithuania’s nobility used it, and the priests in church talked at the populace in it, even though the peasantry didn’t understand it.

 

He did not forget his native Lithuanian language, and sometimes a spirit of rebellion would form in him, urging him to struggle for its rights, and at least privately, to protest against its being forced out of the schools.  A friend once gave him a pamphlet with the “Lord’s Prayer” printed in Lithuanian, and he committed it to memory once again (He had learned it in childhood), and once during class recited it in Lithuanian, instead of the customary Polish.  He was expelled from school and forced to go home.  Three other fellows, holding the same opinions, left school when he did, in a show of solidarity.

 

His father greeted the returning son, questioned him thoroughly, then said:

 

“I see that you have learned much in school, and speak the Polish tongue very nicely.  But if you speak that language here at home, you will have only yourself to blame, when your back pains you afterward.”

 

He gained his further education carrying a rifle in and around the Rudninkų forest and neighboring fields, hunting rabbits and foxes, and occasionally bringing down a broad-shouldered elk.   Here he was far more successful:  being comfortable and competent in the woods, he was adept at tracking down game, and in time, was acknowledged as the best hunter in the area, without whom no hunt would prosper.

 

He inherited the property when his father died, and soon married, but his wife died after the birth of one son, and a distant old-maid cousin arrived to care for the boy.  He did not participate in the 1831 uprising, as he was very ill at the time,  spending several months in bed.  By the time he was well, the rebellion had been crushed.

 

The rebellion suppressed, Lithuania was overrun by the Russian military, the Russian gendarmes and bureaucrats, who brought with them the Russian order. Cossacks would often ride to the kaimas and manor properties to assess the general mood and the people’s attitude towards the authorities, perhaps to gain early warning of any possible disturbances.  The people, unable to speak their language, avoided contact with the foreigners and held their peace.

 

About this time, strange events began to occur in the Eišiškių district.  One evening, a farmer rode to the market at Eišiškes, and instead found himself in Kolesnikus.  He knew the road very well, having traveled it often with his parents and on his own, and he could not understand nor explain how he had arrived at Kolesnikus.

 

Another, older, person, walking to church one evening,  wound up in the opposite direction, in the Pulstokų bogs, where the poor fellow almost drowned.  He was able to help himself only by grabbing onto a birch growing on a small mound, and there he sat in prayer until the dawn came up.  Yet another, leading his horse from pasture in the hour before dawn, harnessed it to a wagon, and drove out to Eišiškes.  He was already close to town when the dawn came up, and he saw that it was his neighbor’s horse, not his own, that was harnessed to his wagon.  He had to return and apologize to his neighbor, but he was unable to explain how it happened, that he had taken a horse not his own.

 

All these incidents were explained, when an old man named Tartkus, who had seen a great deal of the world, wandered into the Balandžių kaima.  He was a familiar visitor, having walked all over Lithuania, north and south, east and west.  There was no village that he didn’t know and he had friends everywhere, to whom he brought news of all the world, often giving worthwhile advice as well.  He was well-liked and always eagerly awaited.  There were some whispers that Tartkus had been a trusted courier for the 1831 rebels, and that he was on familiar and equal terms with Plateraitė[1] and Gelgaudas[2].

 

Tartkus explained to the villagers, that when the Russian army entered Lithuania, the devil Pinčiukas had traveled with them.  This was a fiend of small power, but with a great liking for seducing people, leading them astray and confusing them. It was with his help that the Russians put down the revolt, and now he was raging through the countryside.

 

The villagers believed this, as there seemed to be no other logical explanation.  Kuliešius believed it, too, though, up till now, none of these events had touched him.  He had received a strong religious education in Vilnius, and he trusted that prayer, and especially his patron Saint Casimir, would protect him, not only from this Pinčiukas, but from any dozen other devils.  Every Sunday, while in the church at Eišiškes, he lit a candle at St. Casimir’s portrait, and addressed a few words of greeting to the saint.  It seemed that his trust was well-founded, as he had never lost his way, either in the Rudninkų forest or elsewhere outdoors, even at night. 

 

He liked the forest and its inhabitants,  often passing long hours simply sitting on a fallen log, enjoying the tall pines, the dark green firs, the wide-branched oaks.  There was much to admire.

 

He used to say, “When you look at a pine, you can see how its crown supports the heavens, and, gazing at the spreading branches of an oak, you feel yourself a very small creature in comparison to its strength and majesty.”

 

Kuliešius sometimes wondered, how old can this oak tree be?  Two hundred, five hundred years, or more?  What has it seen through all that time?  Perhaps it even saw Saint Casimir?  He had no doubt that Saint Casimir used to come to the Rudninkų forest to admire its giants. 

 

Immersed in such thoughts, Kuliešius would even forget about the hunt, paying  no attention if an elk, deer, or even a bear passed by, and might not lift a finger, though his trophy bag might be empty.  Those days, he would go home having caught nothing, outside of a couple of rabbits that happened to be underfoot.

 

But eventually, it came to be his turn.  Tartkus had warned, that Pinčiukas would concentrate all his efforts against the just, the devout, and the honest people, trying to diminish their faith and raise doubts.  The Evil One was confident that sinners already belonged to him, so there was not much reason to direct efforts towards them, but to grab someone like Kuliešius, now that would be a very great catch.  He had no doubt that such a prize would earn him a good deal of praise from his superiors.

 

One fine, warm day in autumn, Kuliešius sat on a bench against his cottage wall and quietly prayed his rosary.  It wasn’t an ordinary rosary:  it had been given to his grandfather by a monk who had returned from the Holy Land, and who explained that it had been made from the very tree, from which the Cross had been made, on which the Redeemer gave up His life.  Its beads were the size of cherry pits, and so the rosary was longer than most, but that made it hard to lose.    It was highly valued by the Kuliešius family, and was used only by the family’s head, just once in a while being loaned to a guest.

 

That day, beggar carrying several bags and packs entered the yard, approached Kuliešius, and instead of the customary  “garbė Dievui” (glory to God), gave him a common greeting, “labas vakaras” (good evening).  Kuliešius unhurriedly passed the last bead through his fingers, blessed himself with the Sign of the Cross, then said, “Come, sit down here on this bench, where you can say your prayers, and I will ask the housekeeper to find something for you to put in your bags.”

 

He stood up as he spoke, and walking away, he draped his rosary on the beggar’s leg.  He would always do that, lending his rosary to beggars, so that they might properly say a prayer before receiving alms.

 

This time, something odd happened:  the beggar jumped up as though pricked by a needle, and as the rosary fell to the ground, sprang into a run and disappeared into the darkness of the woods.

 

Kuliešius understood that this was no ordinary beggar, but Pinčiukas himself. Returning to the bench, he picked up his rosary and with it in hand, walked around all his farm buildings, then hung it up in its accustomed place near his bed.  From that time forward, Pinčiukas regarded Kuliešius as his mortal enemy.  He tried every which way he could to injure him, but St. Casimir, Kuliešius’ patron, protected his ward, so all of Pinčiukas’ machinations fell to nothing.

 

Easter was approaching, and would be early this year.  There was still some snow on the ground, but the ice on the risen rivers had begun to crack.  It looked as though the waters would soon begin to carry the ice floes and flood the lowest land areas.  Kuliešius decided that he would travel to Vinlius for Easter, to visit his patron’s tomb and thank him for his help in recovering from illness, and for his guardianship.  He had forgotten all about Pinčiukas, as he had not been seen again, and had not tried to approach Kuliešius. 

 

On the morning of Holy Thursday, Kuliešius, harnessing one of his horses, rode out and was in Vilnius as evening fell.  He stopped at his regular place, an inn on Dominikonų Gatvę,  not far from the Cathedral.  It had been an easy journey, and he stabled his horse, gave him some oats, and spent the night at the inn.  He went to church on Good Friday morning, afterward visiting friends.

 

The residents of Vilnius and its environs firmly believed that, from Good Friday afternoon, that is, the hour the Redeemer died on the Cross, until midnight on Easter morning, the Evil One holds sway on earth and is able to do whatever he pleases, but cannot use violence.  Since the Redeemer was dead, there was no one to restrain him.  During that time, the saints lose their powers, and can do nothing to aid those who depend on their guardianship.  Their powers return only upon the Resurrection.  Only the Mother of God may help a person who has been assaulted by the Evil One,  by sheltering them under her cloak.  And so, on Holy Saturday night, people would travel in groups to the Resurrection Mass.   People avoided going outdoors alone, as one never knew what might happen.

 

Kuliešius had forgotten that, and at ten o’clock Saturday night, he left the inn and set out for the Cathedral’s Resurrection Mass.  After a short while, he met a well-dressed gentleman, who said he was also on his way to the Cathedral, and courteously suggested they walk together.  The gentleman said he had lived in Vilnius a long time and knew every street in the city very well.  He suggested they take the shortest route, as it was surely better to arrive early and thus be able to stay a bit longer in church.  Kuliešius agreed, and they turned into a narrow street, then into another.

 

They walked for a long while, and still the Cathedral was not in sight, but his companion’s conversation was so interesting that Kuliešius lost track of time. Soon they heard a roaring sound, like the grinding of ice floes carried by the river’s waters.  The gentleman explained that this was merely the praying of the faithful in the Cathedral, just a few yards away.   A moment later, they met a peasant, who stopped them, and said that they had lost their way and would not reach the Cathedral by this path.  The gentleman was much offended.

 

“What are you talking about?  I know Vilnius very well, and know which road to take.  Move aside and get out of our way!” , he cried angrily.

 

But Kuliešius stopped and asked the peasant, “Your face looks familiar to me, but I cannot recall where I have seen you?”

 

“Yes, sir, said the peasant.   “We have seen each other often, in Eišiškes” .

 

“Let us go quickly, or we will be late!” , urged the gentleman impatiently.

 

“Wait just a minute   -  said Kuliešius  -  “I want to ask this man which village he comes from.  He is from the same district where I live”.

 

“Hurry! – came the gentleman’s loud and stern response.

 

Kuliešius was about to go, when the Resurrection was announced by the joyful pealing of church bells from all directions.  “Christ is risen!” shouted the peasant.

 

An immediate change came over the gentleman.  He began to shrink, and his fine clothing dropped from him.  Kuliešius saw the devil Pinčiukas standing before him.  As the evil creature tried to run, the peasant seized him by the neck and violently hurled him in the direction of the Cathedral, whose walls could just be seen through the trees.  Pinčiukas, arms outstretched, caromed from one tree, to another, then another, until he struck the Cathedral wall, and stuck fast.

 

“Stay there, while there is a Cathedral!”  said the peasant.

 

Kuliešius looked around in amazement.  The peasant was gone.  He was standing on the banks of the Neris, and just a few steps beyond, the roaring ice floes cracked and ground against each other, as they were carried past by the strong river current.  Had he taken two more steps, he would have fallen into the river and drowned.  Now he remembered where he had seen the peasant.  He thought of the church in Eišiškes and the portrait of St. Casimir, before which he stood every Sunday, in prayer and praise for his patron.  This was not a peasant, but St. Casimir himself, dressed in a peasant’s common clothing.  Kuliešius blessed himself, then hurried through the trees to the Cathedral.  He fell on his knees before his patron’s tomb, giving thanks for his deliverance and asking for the saint’s continued assistance.

 

Pinčiukas was absorbed by the Cathedral’s walls, leaving only a stain on the surface. 

 

The people, in discussing the stain’s variable appearance, came to the conclusion that, when the priest had blessed that place, Pinčiukas, protecting himself from the holy water, had drawn deeper into the wall and the stain had faded; then, when the holy water had evaporated, he came out again and the stain was even more apparent.

 

When the Bolsheviks made the Cathedral into an art museum, and took the cross down, Pinčiukas was able to climb out of the wall, as St. Casimir had said, “Stay there, while there is a Cathedral”. 

 

He was so frightened by his experience that he wouldn’t stay in Lithuania, and took himself off to his accustomed haunts in Punsk.

 

The inhabitants of Vilnius remembered these events for a very long time.  Old folks often told the story, and from the time of these events to the second Bolshevik occupation, all the residents of Balandžio kaima kept a picture of St. Casimir in a place of honor on their walls, decorating it with greens at Eastertime. 

 

A few people, probably out of envy, told the following version of the story:  On Saturday before Easter, several casks of Tokay wine had been brought from Hungary to the inn where Kuliešius was staying.  The innkeeper offered his guests a tasting, and Kuliešius tasted a little too much.  He met no one on his way to the Cathedral, but simply got lost, and the cold air near the river sobered him.  And the stain on the Cathedral was caused by dampness, just as the commission maintained.

 

But very few believed that version, especially and certainly not the people of Balandžio kaima, who knew Kuliešius best.  They knew that a couple of quarts of wine would have had no effect whatsoever on his equilibrium.

 

Source:

From “Vilniaus Legendos”, a collection

compiled by Stasys Lipskis and published by “Žuvėdra

in Lithuania, 1998

 

© English Translation - Gloria O’Brien 2006

 

return to index page

 

 

 



[1] Emilija Plateraitė, a young noblewoman who fought in the rebellion and is sometimes referred to    as Lithuania’s Joan of Arc.

[2] Antanas (Anthony) Gelgaudas, another member of the Lithuanian nobility who fought in the rebellion.  The Gedigaudas (Gelgaudas) familly were the ancestors of the famous, distinguished  British actor, Sir John Gielgud.